AlarÓ Siesta Under The Fig Tree 1

AlarÓ: Siesta Under The Fig Tree

Alaró-have you heard? No? Then it is time but: more and more villages and towns are transformed inside the island of Mallorca in little beauties. A visit to Alaró-with even more addresses for a holiday in the country.

The Plaça of Alaró Shimmers in the evening sun as polished marble. The Town Hall and its arcades shine honiggelb. The balconies of the houses sparkle freshly painted. Old men remain silent side by side on a wooden bench under the Sycamore trees. Gambling girl bounce over the pavement.Only I do not fit into the picture.

I prefer the space now for the third time my rolling suitcase over and can’t find my hotel.Rather than focus me on the streets, I looked here and there. And thinking, whether I me not just in the bar ‘ SA Plaça ‘ should sit and drink a Café con leche. But all the tables outside are already occupied. There is a man in his forties, type artists with corduroy trousers and boots, his glass and ambles up. If he could help me? What I’m looking for? “The ‘ CA’s Prebe’?”-“Not five minutes from here!”, he says. “But before you tell me please, why you all people make holiday in our town. Inside the island, not on the coast.” Lorenzo will bring a glass of wine for me.

I know Mallorca well, like Palma and the villages are the beaches, but what got me last properly. What you have done, so you want to stop and stay! Created pedestrian zones, set up museums, houses renovated embellishment from the front to rear,. I love the contrast of old stone walls and modern design, I like dark bars on low ceilings. I can’t get enough when there are homemade jam and sausage for breakfast. That’s why I chose me a hotel in Alaró.

The Photo Show: Gem AlarÓ

“Lorenzo, where come from this good wine, I just drink?” He is plump yellow like Straw, smells of mango and lime. “From Alaró”, says Lorenzo and shines. “It’s my own wine, a Chardonnay.” The white wine in a tannery, which has transformed into a Bodega Lorenzo has been pressed. Actually he is an architect, but the pressing of wine makes him really happy. Like Malvasia. The area around Alaró is ideal for growing this grape variety: a Valley at the foot of the Serra de Tramuntana mountains. Red Earth, large estates, olive, fig and orange trees. Wooded hills at the edge of the plain. All outstanding: two rugged rock giants, over 800 meters high, cloud barriers that occasionally provide rain – good for the wine. “Malvasia in the roots is mallorquin,” Lorenzo says. “He has an own character and a modern touch. Like Alaró.”

The Bell of the large old church of Sant Bartomeu proposes seven. A top in the white shirt with a bow tie hurries to our table and serves freshly prepared tapas: lamb haunches with garlic and Rosemary, spinach salad with baked goat cheese. At the next table, ordered a swarm of bicyclists in neon green the same and swirls after eating it.

With my hotel, I have found a place already after the first night, which I no longer want to leave. The “CA’s Prebe” was the home of a shoemaker. The master must have been good in the business, he could afford a Palace. Arched entrance door, shutters, lattice Windows, Terra cotta tiles, ceiling beams. In the garden, the green wall and stairs swells. Large and small Palm trees, Bougainvilleas, trees and climbers. In the fountain, water lilies, in the pool swimming guests. Many are not. There are only five rooms and suites. Designed, they are not too sober and not too playful.

This style I met again in Alaró mostly modest stone houses. That Town, less than 30 kilometres northwest of Palma de Mallorca, is typical of the transformation of so far insignificant places in little beauties.

Fornalutx and Deià and Valldemossa have long been known for its charm, but now also the “normal” villages and towns have spruced themselves, Esporles, Santanyí, Porreres, Ses Salines and just Alaró. Because the island’s Government had put in “Sol y Playa”, Sun and beach, long time for tourism, the places in the island interior were forgotten. And that is fortunate. There are small shops with character instead of countless mega discos and souvenir shops here.

As in the shopping street of Alaró, the Alexandre Rosselló. Between a shoe store for the more mature woman, a gallery and an ancient Lottery store is a mannequin and points upwards. Several steps later I’m in the Studio of Margalida Mayol. With views over the flat roofs of the town, a tangled mass of mannequins, fabrics, yarns, model drawings and Ballet dress sits around the young woman at her sewing machine. She has tamed the black curls with a rubber band, dress her comfortable T-Shirt is a personal creation, the Studio at the same time her store. If I’m disturbing you? But no. You must sew just a small black finished. For her mother, who has a birthday today.

What is a young fashion designer in Alaró? That asked is also her after graduation. Her hometown came was boring to her, so she moved to Madrid. But every time she noticed as Alaró changed, has been lively, attractive, interesting. She missed the mountains, the light. “If there real Mallorca is a piece, then here in the island Interior. Alaró has not sold his soul”, says Margarita, who now lives in the House of her grandmother. “How many boy left. And come again. “We have learned from the mistakes of our predecessors: we are open to changes, but everything in moderation.” She wanted to show to me that the old and the modern fit well together. She must get ever more yarn and go for a walk with their dogs.

Yet not long ago, there was this road with Cars been blocked, says Margarita. Meanwhile, the municipality it made a pedestrian zone, calm traffic, freshened up the cultural life. There’s a theater in the modern dance troupes and circus troops occur. A light-filled library. A cultural center old Marès stones and concrete. Which then shows me Margalida is an art in itself: the grocery store can Bou. Reisigbesen and plastic buckets are at the entrance, inside hang pans and toilet brushes from the ceiling, stack things the shoe polish on shelves up to the dog food. The price tags are described with filler.

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An elegant Lady in the blue white dress, white hair in light waves fudges, coming toward us. She may be older than 80. Margarita Rosseló. She has a remedy against each spot, she knows how to get blunt tiles bright. As a girl, she served in the store, which her grandfather founded. We may in her apartment. Five levels of heavy, already we are in her Salon. Pendulum clocks, ashtrays made of heavy glass, lace curtains. I sink into a deep Chair. Here replace you so the latest gossip? “Gossip and gossip? I beg you! We talk about others”not bad here, says Margarita and jerky just her skirt. She wanted better tell me about Alaró.

The Moors have founded the settlement because two sources could supply the village with water. Margarita is proud of their place of birth: “we had here in August 1901 electricity. Front of Palma!” Because Alaró was even then no mere farmer nest, had many shoe shops and factories. Stranger moved here about jobs. “Only one factory has survived, but openness to foreigners has remained. We live well together with Germans, Englishmen, Colombians and Venezuelans, even an international football team!” It is true what the old lady and the young designer say: in Alaró, one adds up to another, and new harmony arises from entirely different. Saturday at the Church of Sant Bartomeu. Market is in place before that. At half twelve o’clock, the church started a free matinee organ playing. The door is wide open, and slowly the incense mingles with the smell of cheese and roast chicken.

Travel Tip: The Best Of AlarÓ

Like To Stay

CA’s Prebe. Hardly, you close the heavy wooden door, you feel at home. With much sense of decorating, Elena Catala in the House has established five spacious rooms in a country house style at the end of a quiet street. Lush garden. Dr/B from €75.

Petit Hotel Alaró. The German Brazilian couple left in the Middle so cheerful paint the walls of the charming hotels, as it is. With garden, pool and barbecue area. Lady of the House and walking guide Angela Daghigh-NIA are good tips. Dr/B from €80.


Mayol Moda. Designer Margalida Mayol tailors young, naughty and comfortable creations of the T-Shirt dress for 45 euros to the custom-designed evening gown. Her Studio is at the same time loading.

CA na Juanita. No other bakery of Mallorca is so loose and wide, crispy Ensaimadas, sweet buns. Many varieties! (Plaça Ajuntament, 19).

Tony Mora. The shoe factory produces handmade cowboy boots, especially for women, for example with rose petals in purple, white. Couple 15 percent discount from 190 euros in the outlet.

Bodega Vinyes d ‘ Alaró. The Chardonnay of the Winery by Lorenzo Colom is the finest.

Market. On the square in front of the Town Hall, the farmers sell on Saturdays (8 am to 14 pm) including fruit, vegetables, cheese, homemade blood sausage, olives, figs jam.


Castell d ‘ Alaró. The ascent to the ruined fortress is partly steep, costs a little steam and takes two to three hours, for 825 metres above sea level are half Mallorca at the feet of man above has (after the end of the town of Alaró on the country road the follow. Alternative: to the Landgasthof “Verger”, then go from there about 45 minutes on foot along the serpentine path to the destination).

Going Out

Traffic. Fine Majorcan cuisine, such as Bacalao (salted cod) with honey, Sobrassada sausage and saffron. The comfortable hotel “Can Xim” belongs to the restaurant. Double room from 80 euros.

SA Fonda. Rustic cellar with typical mallorcan dishes such as suckling pig and lamb shoulder (C /.) Can Ros, Tel. 971 51 83).

S ‘ Olivaret. Estate in wild nature. Had food, such as beef tenderloin in puff pastry PEAR sauce, you would come not so excellent (3-course menu for 27 euro), certainly due to the prospect of vertical rock walls. Who wants to stay can stay in the hotel. Dr/B from 186 EUR.

Getting there

Direct flight with Lufthansa from Frankfurt/Main to Palma de Mallorca from approximately 285 euro


Information at the Town Hall: Ajuntament d’ Alaró, Plaça de la Vila, 17, ES-07340 Alaró,

Travel Tip: Addresses For The Whole Island

Old manor houses were hotels, restaurants and shops. The best addresses on the whole island – from plain to fancy.

Like To Stay

Petit Hotel CA’n Riera. How is it that the 200 residents patch Moscari equal to two hotels has? The owners had with their first hotel (“CA” Ca’n Calco “) so much success that they have one opened. a 650-year-old House. Combined with modern design, are the stone walls of the “CA’n Riera” only so really good. Dr/B from 105 euro (C /.) Campanet, 1, ES-07316 Moscari-Selva,

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SA Rota d ‘ en Palerm. The Finca in a farming village pretty much in the middle of the island reminds despite renovated rooms of the Mallorca of the past: in the Salon a heavy furniture and old pictures in the garden well. The holiday cottage with two rooms and kitchen are family-friendly. Dr/B from 122 euro Lloret-Montuiri km, 0.8 km, Lloret de Vistalegre, 07518 ES Mallorca,

L’estada. The Valley all around was always nice, now it is also the location: Esporles now has a proper Center and a pedestrian Boulevard. Next to the Church, and a boutique hotel: old stone house with charm, modern furniture, large garden. The nine-room hotel absorbs no children under ten years of age. Dr/B from 130 euro (Plaça d ‘ Espanya, 8, ES-07190-Esporles.

CA’ Ca’n Bonico. Previously only a transit to the beach it is Trenc, Ses Salines is now also a town for strolling (Delicatessen, restaurants) and remain: for example in the historic mansion in downtown that has been transformed into a stylish hotel with 28 rooms. Garden with swimming pool, new small, family-friendly bungalows. Dr/B from 120 Euro.

Son olive. As a woman travelling alone it is is lost in the former farm West of Selva never. Although there is no single, for personal atmosphere, a great Thalasso-Wellness offer, plenty of rest in the Green, a pool. And a good restaurant. Dr/B from 140 euro (Camí de es Pedregar, km 2,2, ES-07313 Selva,

S ‘ Hort de CAs Missèr. What grows in the garden, grapefruit, persimmons or almond, often landing on the breakfast table. The eight rooms of the country estate on the outskirts of Selva, in the Northwest of the island are decorated cute mallorquin. Dr/B from €160 (Camí Diumences, ES-07313 Selva,

Son Penya. It most recently was a cattle farm, no longer looking at the luxury hotel in San Llorenç of des Cardassar in the northeast of the island. Bright rooms, beautiful garden, restaurant and Spa. Four golf courses in the vicinity. Dr/B from €200 (Camí de son Berga, ES-07530 San Llorenç,

Santanyí. The Santanyí town in the South-East has just redesigned its main square, then renovated the sandstone townhouses and already opened bars, shops and two hotels. Very cute this is located right next to the market square (Saturday market!) in a quiet side street. Seven bright rooms, patio and roof terrace, restaurant. Dr/B from 110 euros.


Convent del Marquès. In the pretty, former cloister in Santa Maria del Camí, a small town Northwest of Palma, it feeds between arcades, Tulip trees, and fountains. Traditional Mallorcan cuisine, lunch menu for 18.50 euros (Plaça Hostals, 30, only during the summer season opened,

La Posada del Marqués. Sitting on the terrace, one forgets the winding drive to the noble estate near Esporles. Super views of the mountains, in the enchanting Verger Valley and over to Palma. Very good European cuisine, such as spaghetti with Gambas. On Sunday 3-course surprise menu for 22 euros.

Santi Taura. The restaurant offers a great 6 course meal instead of a map for 26.50 euros and reasonably priced drinks. Young celebrity chef, reserve early! Tip: After Lloseta driving not just for dinner. From the main road the stairs climb, discover in the alleys of fabric and shoe shops (C /.) Joan Carles I, 48,

CA na tone. Who has finally found the way to the sleepy village of Caimari, is happy. Everything is boiling the pure women’s team, tastes like Mallorca, about a kind of pizza with Zucchini, goat cheese and olive paste. Wine-clad terrace. 5-course menu for about 26 euro (C /.) HORITZÓ 21, except from July to September only on weekends and holidays open,

Recó de Randa. This restaurant with a hotel in the sleepy village of Randa is not new, but always nice (DZ/F from 145 euro, room renovated). Classic of island cuisine, such as lamb shoulder from the stone oven for 22 euros come on the plate. The newly designed terrace overlooking the land goes to the Sea.

COC. Marc Vidal in the House of his grandmother cooks innovative mallorquin traditional based in Santanyí (C /.) Aljub, 37,.


19 d’art i altres. You would like to browse for hours Maria del Camí in the mansion in Santa to interior design and accessories: porcelain and glass carafes, leather sandals, natural cosmetics, Brocade pillows and Ego². Also wine cellar and gallery with works by Spanish artists.

La candela. Mosaic table, artists lamps, designer jewelry – everything is there only in very small quantities. A small Café also belongs to the shop in the pedestrian area of Felanitx where there is pure country life and stretches on Sunday a market through the whole place (C /.) Major, 60,.

SA Païssa. Majorcan souvenir soaps-painted tiles (Cala Llonga, 2, Calonge).

Teixits Vicens. Mallorcan fabrics with tongue pattern from the manufacturer. Great selection on pillows, tablecloths and all kinds of sets. Tip: Time, one of the most beautiful cities of Mallorca’s historic core plan for a tour of Pollença.

Ollería can SA. “We are artisans, not artists,” says the head of this ancient pottery in Pòrtol, which produces mainly ceramics for everyday kitchen..

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Enseñat. For 50 years, butcher make the Majorcan sausage sobrasada; There is mild or hot. Also large selection of Majorcan specialities (C /.) 5 Alcúdia, Pollença,.

Finca gourmet. Should you get extra because this business for Mallorcan treats to Sóller (North of Palma)? Yes, because we should have seen this small town: great main square with Cafés, magnificent Art Nouveau houses, via the hamlet of port de Sóller access to the Sea.

Sal de la Vida. A new kind of noble Flor de Sal products repeatedly reminds the salt Fisher Katja Wöhr E.g. with orange-chili flavor. You can buy them in their first shop in Santanyí. or the new store next to the salt flats of Ses Salines (at the entrance to the salt pans of it Trenc, CTRA.) De Campos, Colonia Sant Jordi, km 10 Campos,


Mallorca. Good guide to the island, because author Thomas Schröder glossed over, but informed. Clear cards, many tips, including price information (Verlag Michael Müller, 15.90 euro).