Of course also the corresponding jewelry belongs to the traditional costume, but what exactly is actually “accordingly”. And what constitutes the real costume jewelry? Who wears it, what is it and how do you recognize him?
We have asked Christiane sieve – Gemmologist and an art historian specializing in antique jewelry and especially cabal stuff friend – to explain the peculiarities of the ancient and genuine costume jewellery and thank you for this informative and interesting guest post:
Rural clothing or clothing of the rural peasant population is generally referred in today’s parlance as costume. Especially the Northern Alpine folk dress emerged from the working clothes of farmers and hunters with all its regional diversity characterizes our present-day conception of costume, by the way, not least because of the annual Oktoberfest Beer Festival in Munich with all its unspeakable, but also with its authentic garments.
Costume jewellery is worn jewelry with this but originally said something about the social, regional and religious affiliation of the carrier or the carrier in addition to the purely aesthetic function basically to the costume. Jewelry was worn in rural rural areas never everyday work clothes, but only to Kirchgangs – and clothes, he had also always related to seasonal events or festive life customs.
Until the end of the 18th century, an authoritarian defined dress code, stating that colourful clothes and the creation of jewellery was allowed only courtly circles prevailed in Europe or in the whole German-speaking area. Only after lifting the dress code at the end of the 18th century it was allowed to wear coloured clothes and jewelry also farmers and citizens. Therefore, the forms and the taste of classicism prevailing at that time dominated the now emerging traditional jewellery.
Easily recognisable by the so-called crop chain – originally multi-row, designed to slim necks Colliers were worked from pearls and diamonds, under the term “Collier de Chien” very popular and widespread, in noble circles, because it worked elegantly and awarded something majestic to the wearer.
The new traditional jewellery imitated these chains form after and modified it to the so-called crop chain worked multi-row silver pea chains with magnificent, decorated with colored glass stones and silver filigree ornamental closing. Very soon realized the wealth and social status of the wearer in the village community in the Vielreihigkeit of the goiter chain and the size of the ornamental clasp.
In the Salzkammergut the goiter chains were affectionately known as, by the way “Godernspreiz ‘n”, which can be translated as Gurgelspreizer slightly bumpy, because the great closing wandered in during the 19th century from the neck to the front and then were an important decorative element firmly on the “goitre”, making the wearer was forced automatically to an upright and proud attitude. This crop chain costume lovers are still with the most popular piece of jewelry.
In addition emerged at the beginning of the 19th century, so to speak, in the hour of birth of costume jewelry, necklaces, rings, earrings and bracelets, like co-ordinated in the form of related Paruren, Garnet from Bohemia and alpine rock crystal made of silver from Tyrol,.
The social status was always both in size and weight of the jewelry pieces and in shapes and materials of the decorations: the use of river – or glass beads, coins or horn buttons and hunting trophies such as Grandln, tusks and claw showed the inaugurated influence and wealth of the Träger(in).
Then, as now, there were real materials that made the difference, and also to be observed in recent years Renaissance of costume jewelry changed this fact.
Fake jewellery in the so-called “Traditional or country style” the fleeting Viewer at first glance may seem similar to – who look closer, but recognizes the worlds that lie between the originals and their imitations, that are totally unsuited to the completion of a high-quality Dirndl or a real costume.
Check out our selection of costume jewelry at WHOLESALEABLY.COM.
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